Pulled this off a ridulously curt list of Italians at an Italian resty last night–basically a *least-boring and offensive* selection of the 5 offered. There was Crognolo–which I love and drink a ton of–for a great price, but I wanted ITALIAN–not super-Tuscan. Beautiful clear ruby-garnet in the glass, a nose oily and burnt: the cinnamon and nutmeg toasted and grimy over warm cherry and a bit of latex-y barnyard funk.
Effortless and unassuming on the palate, a classic presentation of what people expect from a CCR without excelling in any particular direction toward greatness or individuality. Watery fruit–while managing to compose itself with considerable depth–showing chalky, acidic *thin-ness*: easily the most beautiful part. Powerful chunks of rich berry present themselves alongside a heavenly grate of pure tannic bitterness and sweet structure. An absolute infant–and with all the marks to last easily another decade or more. A fairly simple wine at this juncture, but could reward.
2018 CASTELLO di VOLPAIA Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 14.5