Who wants a ridiculously powerful and inexpensive Chianti? SIGN ME UP! This thing pulls no punches, pouring a staining, pink-rimmed dark ruby and cramming gobs of green vegetal ire and rich blackberry and melon fruity depth. Decanted heavily and with air blossoms somewhat, but still so young and violent as to cause gasp. I honestly can’t remember the last time I had Sangiovese like this–it basically feels quite Northern Rhone or Northern Italy aside from a fat savory chunk moderating the bouquet.

In the mouth, a blistering set of firm berry waves blast in, calm and sweet for a minute: then shrill, green weedy briar obliterate all in an acidic wash. It is a dry, chalky, massively-structured infant, creasing the palate with shards of chewy splendor and bringing new definition to any ills you may have classically stacked up against all things *Chianti*. Light glimpses of tobacco and leather prelude the taste, and the finish is ALL tannin. It’s ripe though: continuous cherry makes futile attempts to soothe. This is NOT a pricey wine, and quite available in the US: find it and stash MANY away.

2020 I VERONI ‘I Domi’ Sangio/Colorino 90/10 Rufina Chianti DOCG Tuscany Italy 14.5

www.iveroni.it/en/