Lavish garnet in the glass, a nose mildly maraschino but hitting on plenty of deep, well-constructed fruit behind a shell of acid and tannin. Polishing nicely, not even a glimpse of sluttiness or oak, probably a wine with several decades to go but incredibly lean: glancing down into areas a California palate would probably call “unfruited” or “past-prime”. These things just don’t glow with the kind of effusiveness a LOT of wine-drinkers demand these days, and for that: it’s absolute heaven for me. Graceful cherry and slight briar glimmer at the edges of ridiculous acid and mineral grate–the whole package quite barbaric in bouquet texture.

In the mouth, tertiary *just* beginning to blossom. Like the 2004 I enjoyed last week, leaden leaders of savory leather and warm weather bring slight cherry and raspberry to forefront, a calm thin-ness of body captivating full attention: not blowing anything out-of-the-water with grandiosity while an ease of tired-ness smooths and polishes. But it’s not tired. FAR from it. The structure contained melds perfectly with fruit potential, creating a finish going areas only wines of this ilk can muster. An absolutely glorious bottle, and no amount of recommendation can be considered over-statement.

2007 R. LOPEZ DE HEREDIA Vina Tondonia ‘Reserva’ Temp/GR/Graciano/Mazuelo 75/15/5/5 Rioja Spain 13.0

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