I’m beginning to believe in biodynamics and I might be in a fruit-phase because this is the second wine in two days so ridiculously flush with amazing floral-infused berry in the nose. Nah… that’s all hooey, but still. This is not a wine pulling copious Pinot notes as in “Grenache delivers what Pinot promises”. Nope. This one’s headed into Syrah territory and is GORGEOUS. Purple-blue in the glass with a pink rim, nowhere is your grenache-garnet and the bouquet peeling gobs of sharp fruit, spicy structure, and tar-infused vegetal… but the true difference is when you taste it.
In the mouth, it goes Carignane-Syrah-Mourvedre in feel: thin and sharp, packed with stony bluster and funky brightness. Brilliantly tannic–even from entry–peppery blackberry and a rush of spicy briar control the palate. Achingly structured, teeth-wiping aspects of which are impossible to ignore. There’s a late-cherubic roundness of bruised berry hinting at Pinot and regional Garnacha, but only if you squint real hard. Ridiculously balanced and delicious, it manages deep tobacco and leather savory under-pinning high-notes of fruit and acid. This is how shit’s supposed to be made, boys & girls. What a beautiful wine.
2019 THE GRENACHISTA Grenache Noir Mathis Vyd. Sonoma Valley California 14.1