Quite possibly the lightest, crispest, Chablis-esque wine I’ve had from Donald Patz, this thing explodes with tightly-wound flavor and acidity. Green-golden in the glass, a nose delivering hazelnut, almond and citrus zest throughout the spectrum. But there’s a deep-seated smoky-butter sequence plumping things up. Rather un-lavish in bouquet, however: a welcome spark of liveliness invigorating the palate.
Tasting it shatters any delusions of under-ripeness, as it delivers forthright, stellar fruit strong and hard through imperceptive means. It’s so clean and calm, deceptive in direction, the entry light and bright, the core thick and full. Glorious banana and pear found the fruit, while gritty stoniness secures the middle and finish. Overall, the rich charade of the variety glows appropriately.
2019 MARITANA Chardonnay Dutton Ranch – Hansen Hill Vyd RRV Sonoma Co. 14.0
Stephen McConnell 