Another Malvasia… this one very popular around the Central Coast–LOTS of resty lists carry it–for obvious reasons. Pale straw in the glass, a nose slightly green and vibrant, but the sweetness overpowers most of the fruit. Ripe peach and lychee make for a full, almost-syrupy lavish bouquet.

Tasting it doesn’t spark any of the reasons well-made versions of the variety shine. It’s just a dull, sweet wine, vague and cloying, although considerable acid tries its hardest to keep things balanced. A bit of heat burns the thin finish, making the whole thing merely a quaffable drop uninspiring and falling far short of complex.

2017 CLESI Malvasia Bianca San Bernabe Vyd Monterey Co. 13.5

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