Ahhh that glorious funk of Chianti! You know–back a couple decades in my early days of wine-appreciation–I was troubled by this note, something I think a LOT of young wine drinkers feel, but as palates mature away from the California sweet-tooth and the typicity of a region becomes sacred, appreciation grows until there becomes a firm line between *Italian Sangiovese* and *Chianti*. Clear golden-ruby right out to the rim, powerful legs glowing and nose packed with rustic elegance surrounding crisp berry. Barnyard drippy hose-bib and the bright green things sprouting below in the muddy detritus–all earthy wonder in a bouquet otherwise brimming with dark, sultry cherry.
I tasted their–FAR cheaper–IGT Super-Tuscan a week or so ago and was not impressed, but here everything stays true to form. On the tongue, the blistering rage of youth comes at you forth-right: a shocking yang to the yin of the nose. Full and rich, acid and green structure projecting from every direction into a chalky, peppery mouth-feel begging for age. Oh, but it’s lovely NOW, but it will take the paint off your car. Wild and ripe while crisp and dry, black berry depths churn below superficial graininess. But it still manages a thin, clairvoyant body, something infantile Sangio of this quality often deals out in spades. Comparing ageable new-world wines with timeless classics from Europe is often a study in *perceived sweetness*, where over-ripe and over-wrought offerings from the former are hailed as benchmarks against the thin, pure, dedication of the latter. The fruit is all here–it’s just not pancake syrup or oaked extravaganza–even though 14-5 and 24 months. The finish pulses with power, though the tannin at this juncture are a bitter ration. Fairly easy to find in the US–find it and stash a few away for a decade or more.
2018 AGRICOLA QUERCIABELLA Sangiovese Chianti Classico DOCG Italy 14.5
Stephen McConnell 