Been a while since I had a Colson Canyon, and loyal readers know what a fan I am of this vineyard. Way out in the boondocks above Bien Nacido (more accurately: way up above Cambria and Byron Nelson) almost to HWY 166. I’ve driven up there at least once looking for it, but never found it. Technically outside SMV, or as I recall a section of it brushes SMV. Many people have made wines from this vineyard, though I have heard since it changed hands a few years back Tensley are keeping all the fruit. I have also heard–upon changing hands–it was in pretty bad shape.
This wine is stupidly young, and also strikes me as a style of Syrah I am not typically fond of. It’s a huge style–more akin to Paso Robles or that guy in Ventura. Beyond black–it is absolute INK. A thin sliver of purple graces the rim, but otherwise complete and total obfuscation of light or vision. The nose is restrained–showing little of those two references–and this bodes well for me. Dull, saturated berry lavishly ordained with leather and tar, with air, it gains slight green vegetal and certain savory aspects, but concentrated berry is the word.
Tasting it unleashes the monster into your face: and it is a BIG monster. Not necessarily unbalanced, though, as the grip and gripe of chewy, chalky body and plentiful acid stuff the fruit with charismatic attack. SOOOO ripe, though, and a touch of heat tinges the concentration. I’m guessing 14-9, with legal deviances garnering the asterisk. It doesn’t feel like Paso anymore, because Paso can’t make this wine. Paso would have made it chubby, and despite the stand-a-fork-up-in-it viscosity and blithering maceration, this wine actually is fairly light on its feet. There’s very little funk or earth: at this moment it is all ridiculously complex–and concentrated–fruit and tannin. Honestly, not very enjoyable at this juncture, but I firmly feel this wine will age for literally DECADES. Buy a case: drink one every 2 years. Don’t even touch it for 5.
2021 TENSLEY Syrah Colson Canyon Santa Barbara Co. 15.0
Stephen McConnell 