One part bad generic label, one part ridiculous price, one part the negociant-sounding verbiage and lack of definitive googling of winery source: this was an easy experiment in the realm of Barolo. Thin amber throughout, a nose headed into classic prune while maintaining easy fruit backgrounds behind the rasp and ire of chalky substance. Generous funk on opening–and rather closed-in–decanted heavily.
As faded as a Bernie bumper-sticker and dryer than Obama’s humor, it musters the kind of pale, bitter berry one expects but all in a body clunkier than Biden’s situational awareness. The grainy folds of bitter fruit grasp endearingly at points of light emerging from acidity, and it never pulls off any sort of magnificence one hopes for. Arguably in Barolo-stasis of near-indefinite ageability, still: one has to proffer *it never had it and never will*. There’s very little elegance contained, likewise concentration is not something we’re particularly looking for–nor can be found. It will cut through hearty, tomato-ridden dishes with aplomb; likewise decadent Italian meat classics, but nowhere is anything spell-binding found in simple sipping. Maybe 20 more years is the key; maybe it’s Maybelline; maybe it’s something you shouldn’t waste your time–and cellar-shelves–on. The finish fades faster than a redneck’s flag and you’re left with teeth-wiping astringency for memory.
2014 VILLA BAGLIO Nebbiolo Barolo DOCG Piedmonte Italy 14.0
Stephen McConnell 