A beautiful, spicy pick off an all-Italian list tonight–the regular Barbera d’asti was 2020 and for $10 more, an extra 3 years and “Superiore” seemed a wise pick. Luxurious, musty nose and near-black body with slightly-bricking rim. The fruit heavy with cinnamon and nutmeg, boiled down into decadent berry and sharp briar. Everything screams dense concentration in the bouquet, and with a variety of antipasti and creamed dishes, went perfectly.
Equally thick and rich on the tongue, lavish layers of pepper and vegetal making blackberry a thing of light wonder. Achingly acidic, with buttery dryness etching rivulets of chalky wonder all across the palate, it strikes at perfect balance between old-world funk, slightly-aged patina, and warm cherry deliciousness. A wine nearly impossible to argue against in ANY setting–even drinking solo it brings enough near-15-oh power to the forefront of a wine clearly anchored in old Italy. Sweet enough to cause consideration of structure, charmingly flabby in a couple spots, dense applications of leather and lace dance around all that spicy pepper the variety cranks out with ease. A sure-fire pick on any menu.
2017 MARCHESI INCISA DELLA ROCCHETTA ‘Sant’ Emiliano’ Barbera d’Asti Superiore DOCG Roccetta Tanaro Piedmont Italy 15.0
Stephen McConnell 