Awash in rich, decadent fruit–but with a little time in the glass: upon opening quite closed in and meager, even. We were drinking this with some rather lush and layered older wines and my partner was disappointed how un-flowery this came off. “But that’s Sangio!” I said and ordered a glass of 2017 Chianti Classico. Indeed, the differences between California and Tuscany were obvious, but powering through all was the calmness with which this grape expresses its magnitude.
Chalky and powerful, never tipping the scales toward monstrosity, the bitter etch of fruit creased with deep chasms of acid and granular tenacity: Sangiovese is about reined-in texture.
2018 MASTRO SHEIDT FAMILY CELLARS Sangiovese North Coast California 13.9
Stephen McConnell 