I experiment with a lot of cheap Bordeaux (I consider anything under $40 “cheap Bordeaux”) and while it is an interesting past-time, it can–as most of you know–be fraught with a LOT of disappointments. It doesn’t stop me though! The vast majority of these wines fall into one of two catagories: so harshly unfruited and unapproachable their value is nil, or so ‘California-esque’ in ripeness and plushness they fail at everything I drink Bordeaux for, though the latter are obviously FAR more enjoyable to drink. Typically–unless just a stupidly good vintage–the satellites present far more quality than Cru Borgeois or Bordeaux Superieur. Here we have just that thing: a Listrac AOC from Medoc from an above-average–but not spectacular–year and this is definitely one of those winners you stumble upon occasionally.
Rosy, brilliant deep ruby in the glass out to staining pink edges, a nose with considerable bottle-funk pent up inside a quick decant nearly eliminates. The earthy rusticity and mineral tones carry on beautifully, glancing over the bow of nice vegetal and deep, ripe fruit buried under all the gentle angst. Dank and smoky, but not to buzz-kill levels, it manages that classic Medoc presentation where structure and fruit power through together in a fabulous dance.
Tasting it sends a shrill wall of acid and stone against the palate, the entry stunningly thin and crescendoing in all directions as sensors are engaged. Gloriously bitter, the tannin etching streaks of power through black cherry and pomegranate pith in mouth-wiping fashion, brittle berry impossibly wrapped in sharp briar. Finish forever: the fruit shining on in memory past the attack of tannin. An unbelievable bargain worth stashing multiples away.
2016 CHATEAU FOURCAS DUPRE Listrac-Medoc Bordeaux France 13.0
Stephen McConnell 