Pretty Vacant

Medium ruby with wide thin edges.  Big spicy nose flush with dark berry and perfumed notes see-sawing back-and-forth between densely loamy and higher exotic notes almost like thumbin through a new ELLE or ALLURE or VANITY FAIR until it all settles down into flabby nothingness.  I believe this is the third 2013 I have had:  Alta Maria Carbonic, Clendenen ‘Pip’ and this one.  It is somewhat in a tie for ‘least interesting’ with the former–but for opposite reasons.  Where the Alta Maria was brightly-fruited-uninteresting, this one is dark-and-round-uninteresting.  Cola and viscous thin-ness, with little acid and microscopic tannin.  Really vapid stuff.  The early nose is the best you will get and it all goes downhill from there.  Meager, vapid, non-event.  14-0   ◊

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