A Bear-2 of a Bottle

Bright clear ruby with pink edges.  Effusive petrichor and intense crushed-bug briar overwhelm with heady petrol, root-beer and alcohol.  An overwhelming bouquet–rich in mineral and wood and over-powering the prescient fruit.  This is a label produced by the winemaker at Mayo in sonoma.  Not sure what production is, but I have never seen it.  Purchased at the Mayo tasting room.  Bought a couple because it impressed me there and now–many months later–is making an impression again.  Settles down into a nice full, ripe wine border-lining on flabby with a slight nuance of age and AL still clearly apparent.   In the mouth, a bitter and spicy entrance magnify and continue through the finish.  If there was fruit in this, it is gone, but something tells me it never had it.  Capitalizing on minerality and oak in the nose and obtuse tannin in the mouth is a sure-fire recipe for tourist love.  “It’s so HUGE!!!”  “My god, what a big wine!”  This wine is interesting to drink and not horrid.  It is, however, disjointed, ungainly and lacking.  13-8    ♦

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