Shall We Gather At the Rio

Clear light garnet with a ruby core. Vaguely ripe vegetal nose sporting toasted almond, desiccated fruit, chalky and stiff, smoky and soapy, fresh artichoke and burnt beans under the thick cloak of watery alcohol.

These wines have never blown me away, and the idolization escapes me. They are good, solid, interesting wines always delivering and rarely disappointing, but the level of twinkle some people get in their eye here on the Central Coast when “Ken Volk” is mentioned has always been point of wonderment to me. Had most of the Enz and Lime Kiln or San Benito offerings at some point–the Mourvedre is quite good–as well as the Nielson Syrah (google that vineyard). They are all extremely well priced and lately, he is offering a myriad of crazy little strange varieties I would KILL to taste. Pomar Junction Blaufrankisch, I’m lookin at you. Bien Nacido Melon? Bella Collina Tannat? Come on’ son.

In the mouth, clear brilliant thin focus with outstanding fruit hitting the tip of the tongue and never taking a break. Crystalline burnt remnants of fat and fruit impale everything in a vignette of wine twice this age. A peppery recourse from the faded fruit turns tannic-abrasive at the last minute, leaving a finish of cherry-muddled slate.

Click on the link and order the $12/bottle mystery case. I DARE you. If anything sucks I’ll refund you.

2012 KENNETH VOLK VINEYARDS Grenache Rio San Benito San Benito Co. 14.4

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