This is not Pinot for the timid or The Burgundian. This is thicc, rich, intensely fruited, stand-a-fork-up-in-it massive black dense dark stuff for people who do not want their wines to tread lightly and for whom this bottle MIGHT just BE the meal. Completely muscle-bound in the nose and I do not typically decant Pinot but this thing drinks syrah-ish enough to have floral and earth blocked somewhat by cassis and steroidal cherry and–especially at this young age–needs many gasps of air to allow any pretty funk or pinot affectation to surface.
In the mouth, it drinks pretty much the way it looks: crazy young pink tingly edges and ridiculous legs wrapping blackberry and Fierce Grape powder on a licked finger into swells of unsweetened compote and a lime money-shot. Dusty and boozy in the finish–and unapologetic that my glasses will never be clear again.
This is a style of wine that is ridiculously popular, and very well serves great purpose in converting fans of massive cab and syrah over to the magic of Pinot–a variety they otherwise view as weak and thin. To drink this wine is to cheat on your diet.
2017 BOLT TO WINES Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills Santa Barbara 14.7