Marching Orders

Dark blueish ruby, thin pink edges staining. Ripe and rotund in the nose, massive–almost Paso quantities–of rich fruit, black cherry piled upon petrichor, a fat tarry thread woven through the hot briar and crazy mineral that just flows and flows off this little thing. It HAS to be 13-5 minimum. This thing is a handful of curvy maraschino and pomegranate goodness. I can’t wait to taste it. Decanted heavily.

So… Gary Eberle said, “If you couldn’t make great wine in ’97, you should probably get a new hobby.” And I’ve heard similar things about 2016 in Bordeaux. And I’m not putting serious indication on this little vin de that is all of 20 bucks soakin wet. Many MANY late night wine-soaked conversations have I been a part of dissecting the theories and generalities regarding how A REALLY AWESOME VINTAGE affects the lesser labels. [The same conversation is even more fun in reverse: How shitty vintages affect the lesser labels.]

In the mouth, way lighter on its feet than I assumed from the nose. Fruit is juicy and engaging, but dancing around a core of solemn density ramrod-stiff of mushroom umami, wood bark and concrete. The first trickle down your throat unleashes a shock of acid on the senses, which lightens the mood but does nothing to stop the ripples of fruit going on and on and on… Simple finish with a little bit of funk and harsh green, simple tannins.

Not an earth-moving wine by any means, but pretty impressive for the price.

2016 CHATEAU GRAND MARCHAND ME/cab Vin de Bordeaux France 13.5

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