Sangio meets California

Loyal readers of mine will know how much I adore this brilliant little Kobrand $25 Super-Tuscan, this baby Orena as it were, as I continually find it not flabby or over-oaked as have been the Napa comparisons to Super Tuscans of late but even at its approachability and low price it is intensely structured and lovely with a little age. I keep a pretty stiff vertical of this wine and grabbed an 11 tonight with some pasta I’m thinking of whippin up.

Intense bottle funk headed hardcore into barnyard. I could see this being off-putting for a large number of people. Still considerably tannic even though the nose has gone all mineral and greenbriar, the fruit is all a dried preserve. Funky sharp back-sweat and a wet-slate chalkboard nail, brilliant with match-head and cut herbs.
Fresh swirls or fresh pours bring the funk back to life but easy air exposes all of the true sharp beauty.

Entry is an expectant mix of almost 10 year old Merlot but look again, this is Sangiovese! This Super Tuscan doesn’t mess around. Brilliant aged fruit runs over the tongue, drying on all sides, edgy and brilliant but absolutely drinkable at this point. Sharp, plentiful fruit doesn’t insult–as I have never found this wine to do. If you have a 11’s of this sitting around–as I have several–I suggest you visit them and make a decision for yourself.

An easily overlooked wine in the Italian catalog, but if you have this one available to you in your market I suggest finding a reliable source and visiting it every year.

2011 TENUTA SETTE PONTI *Crognolo* Sangiovese Italy 14.5


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