Black ruby glass-staining gunk. Beautiful nose chiming all the bells Napa Valley consistently brings to the table, crazily dank earth–no, it’s way beyond that–it’s straight up petrichor, gritty decomposed granite, thick sticky clay, wet shale shufflin’, a little BBQ smoke over rich salted dripping steak, fresh tortillas, enough glossy mud-puddle barnyard to really make it interesting, and fruit trickling way down in the cracks: a wisp of flabby black cherry rather lost in all the *stuff*.
So… this is a wine that confuses the 99. Not picking on this particular brand–just the style. I’ve seen people confused over wine like this a million times. THERE’S SO MUCH GOING ON and it smells SO GOOD you can get carried away in some sort of reverie ignoring the obvious. And when you really start breaking things down and compartmentalizing, there’s NOTHING going on.
In the mouth, nutty butter heads off the sharpness of impending minerality. Considerable acidity takes a roasted-alcohol on head-to-head, driving some sort of stemminess ahead. Dull and burnt, there’s no fruit. A tinctur-ey sort of boozy syrup is supposed to be the tannin.
A big bitter concoction of what? You must decide.
2013 KULETO ESTATE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 14.8