Rosy dark ruby with wide pink edges. Grippy, chalky nose, dry striker-box, wet masonry, not even a glimpse of cellar floor as you sometimes get from neutral oak. Fat and creamy, a heady briar forcing elegance on otherwise plummy, strawberry fruit. Here the fruit is dark and thick, headed DEEP into cru-bojo territory, obviously with a rich side of minerality.
Opened probably a dozen bottles of French gamay today–including a couple nouveaus–on LIQUID LUNCH–our local wine radio show–for All Gamay Day not unintentionally coinciding with 3rd Thursday. I had to grab something quick as the final spoils were being divvied and swooped this one. I’ve had this wine multiple times, but never a nice fat bottle all by itself in the quiet of me and my keyboard.
In the mouth, cool fruit soothes momentarily before completely vaulting its concentration and tingliness over the rainbow into la-la land your mouth can barely contain. So. Stupidly. Young. “Vibrance” doesn’t even do it justice. Electrifying to every pore, the pure power, shrill acidity, and stony fruit purity slowly morph into the sort of tannin familiar to Gamay lovers.
If you want, a Cru Beaujolais, made in California, which pulls out all the stops, both fondling and rasping you all the way, this is your dealio.
2018 ANN ALBERT Gamay Martian Ranch VYD Los Alamos District Santa Barbara Co 13.0
Stephen McConnell 