A crispy toast creeps out, heralded by fruit under heavy layers of dust and the dark bronzing of steely patina. Liqueur and alcohol meld together creating a flabby stew not spicy or fruity enough to head into the cough-syrup realm. A little rubber band flexes on the fresh pour, blowing off quickly into dull cherry and lanolin so thick it clogs pores.
Hedges was probably one of my first exposures to Washington wine after Columbia Crest. Very little of it makes its way down here to California–it’s getting BETTER, it’s gotten a LOT better the past decade, but still reflects what I call *polar marketing*, where only the absolute most-expensive and least-expensive wines are commonly seen. No middle-ground. Australia’s kinda the same way here. I mean–I can buy Leonetti and Quilceda all day long. And I can buy Hogue and Columbia Crest by the truckload. Nothing in the middle. I love this wine, it has been in my cellar since release, and while I am a bit disappointed it is not holding up better, this bottle is showing FAR better than the last one I opened over a year ago. This is a $24.99 bottle of wine (and the best packaging in the business) so you can’t be TOO hard on it.
Fairly one-dimensional black cherry bubble pops in the mouth. A bit of bitter rust–a raw edge awkwardly jutting out from fairly dank tertiary–attempts to sever communications with the rich fruit mid-palate, but fortunately the concentration on this one does not allow it. Chewy and thick, definitely a stunner… well it WAS… maybe it will be again. Maybe we’re in some weird phase. Finish balanced and spice-ridden, gobs of jammy preserves piling on. I have some more of these… see you in a year.
2007 HEDGES FAMILY ESTATE ‘Red Mountain’ ME/cab/SY/CF 56/30/8/6 Red Mountain Washington 13.6