My Favorite Neighbor

The smell of this wine absolutely stops you in your tracks, the shy cinnamon and nutmeg coaxed along with deep raspberry and rose-hips, the hot vinyl seats and House of Color Kandy urethane only puncuated by gasoline and burnt rubber of ’71 Nova SS and the fresh-scrubbed blonde pressin the go-pedal. There’s a smoky texture to this wine–assuredly not from oak–permeating the ridiculous floral. Blood, butter, sweat, curry, Oolong, and a greasy vigor that comes up so freely from the clear bright purple-rimmed ruby.

I tasted this wine on release and it was a bit rough. As I suppose any wine shooting for this direction SHOULD be on release. Now that I’ve had this bottle in my cellar for a year, signs of *settling down* are apparent. Really hittin its stride, and easily one of the most Northern Rhone darlings from California I have crammed my nose into this year.

Shrill, acidic and gloriously thin on the palate, but by no means meager. The texture of the nose plants itself firmly on the tongue, the crazy green briar and grapefruit minerality spreads itself evenly over all surfaces, rich cherry kissing everything in its way. The way the virginal cherry syrup waters itself down with joy and coy graciousness is pure wine magic, assertive and on top, giggling and squirming the whole time, wholesomely pleasing but not slutty. No spikes, not up and downs, no bubbles, just clear defined fruit and straight-forward balance curvingly grippy in the finish, the massive fruit never taking a breath, plunging on forever, insatiable.

This is the most remarkable wine I have had this year. I know it’s only April, but this shit is so nails I can’t even. A LOT of you know Darren Delmore from his national travel with Tablas Creek; this is his personal project and if you can’t find yourself some GET ON THE LIST. This wine’s not for everyone, but those of you who get it, GET it.

2018 DELMORE Syrah Stolo/Boulder Creek Vineyards 65/35 Cambria North Central Coast 13.5

www.darrendelmore.com

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