Well it’s definitely Chianti. No mistaking that smell. Not some sangio-heavy Toscano or new-oak-smoothed super-wonder designed for the California palate. No sir-ee. Big funky barnyard flows out of it generously and easily. Burnt tire and straw hay and rivulets in trodden mud. A green-briar piquantness underlies the smoky berry–or rather overwhelms it, depending on where you are in the swirl. Fruit will be dark and concentrated, there is no mistaking that, but oh boy all the gloriously mucky field & farm runs unbridled through everything in the nose.
And let’s talk about the olive oil for a second. The smart money will be getting some of this WITH the wine–to fully experience the nature of this small farm–though I am not necessarily suggesting a pairing. I taste all my olive oils the minute they come in the door–as I assume all of you do. Brilliant chartreuse and shockingly vibrant, an oily tang invades the nostrils and it is easily one of the greenest, most pure pulpy bitter, alive and olive-tasting oils of the hundreds I have tasted. The peppery burn is easy to regulate with air–never overwhelming–and the amount of straight unadulterated flavor contained in this hand-dated bottle is without equal.
But let’s taste the wine. The nose has settled down to expose far more bright cherry. Alot of that lovely grit plays with the tip of the tongue, while acid curls around the edges. Meaty and dense in flavor, while directing everything into tip-toe dance, it strikes one of those European balances we all love so much. Cherry black as night in flavor, but in profile delicate and transparent. BLOCKBUSTER tannin churns up from the acid, promising MANY years on this beauty.
If you have the products of this TINY (4 hectares of field-blend; hand-bottled) organic farm available in your area, these are definitely a treat of the purest form.
2018 MORI CONCETTA ‘Morino’ Sangio/Canaiolo/Colorino/Pugnitello Chianti Classico DOCG Toscana 13.5