Creamy, milky goodness, a little dirty mint on the nose, sharp peach and those tiny speckled yellow grapes that grew on your grandmother’s fence-line that were easier to just take mouthfuls off the bunch than pick one-at-a-time. It has a tiny soiled rusticity to it that heads into cider-y and TBH it doesn’t really *smell* like Chardonnay–just a spicy green fruit I haven’t found a name for.
An equally annoying and charming part of ‘natural wine’ makers is they typically eschew classic or mainstream grape varieties. Cab franc and syrah and chenin blanc aside… sure, I’m rounding up here, but loyal followers know I often speak in mass generalities. But Chardonnay? The reputation for chard is one hipster-geek wants to get as FAR away from as possible, but see now the way I’M wired: it would be something I would jump at. And apparently: so do these guys. Take the boringest of all normie wines, a wine the 99%–and producers who cater to them–have DESTROYED in flavor-profile AND reputation and create something delicious, odd and funky from it. I give you this wine.
The mouthfeel is sharp, acid with a side of dirt create an almost chewy thickness. A smoky graciousness–from FRUIT, not BARREL–attempts a savory reach-around, but it really isn’t enough to fluff this wine up to any sort of classic chardonnay roundness. You’re out on a limb on this one and I would never blind it. Chenin, probably is a close as I would get. Thinly sweet and briskly clean in the finish, a little tannin grinding things along just to make sure you weren’t getting comfortable.
I’ll say it again: This is the only ‘natural wine’ brand I have any sort of long-term, almost bullet-proof track record with. Order one of everything and if anything sucks I’ll refund your money personally. What kind of critic give THAT kind of guarantee???
2019 DEUX PUNX Chardonnay San Benito Co. Central Coast 13.0