Big dusty petrol a smoky layer over thick melon and bright floral, the combination of which creates a round, walnut-skin briar tinged with vanilla, peat and coffee. Concentrated on the tongue: this is not a sharp, austere version of the variety, but a delicious, quite rich drop, sweetened by age, mouth-filling and packed with fruit. But it’s not slutty. Crisp and sharp on entry, the acid spikes dry abrasiveness against a wall of petrichor and soft Meyer lemon. Bitter and gamey over the middle, but everything tucked neatly into the pillowy down of melon and apricot comfort. Almost-metallic in finish: tannins like fluffy nitre on soft brick.
Readers familiar with my reviews of Riesling know this is EXACTLY the way I like them. Yellow in the glass, rich in the nose, with overwhelming gorgeousness on the palate. Teutonic versions rarely do this for me–at least not under 50 bucks a bottle–and far too many of the *cool kids* in California aim for the somm-favorite austerity that cause perplexed brow-furrowing from those of us who appreciate full-flavored wines and don’t have the time–or patience–to argue their cancel-culture of us “just not getting it”. I like my Riesling to taste good. Is that so difficult to understand?
This Riesling tastes good. And has all kinds of things–not the least of which is supreme balance–start-to-finish that’s gonna secure an A+ from me. Don’t know who these people are… never heard of them… no idea where I got it–or what I paid for it–or where to find more, but I’d love a case in my cellar.
2015 LANGHART & HILL Riesling Gould Family Vyd. Sonoma Co. 12.5
Stephen McConnell 