This is really pretty stuff. An almost spritely texture on the tongue, tingling and tightening the pores which can’t help but absorb hundreds of delicate fruity sensations. The nose is a fresh-picked bouquet of lily and jasmine, natal plum and green nectarine. SOOOO ridiculously clean and bright–not unctuous or overwhelming–tiny bits of green stemminess carried ever-so-slightly on a film of petrol. Green lime and petrichor contribute to a slight old-world cellar-floor patina, but nothing gets in the way of its pure, streamlined tightness and saline fruitiness.
This prolific negociant was unknown to me a couple weeks ago, but in the days since I reviewed her Rosso Sicilia, news of her fabulous wines and clarity of labeling have been repeated by numerous sources across social-media land. You’d pretty much have to live in a cave to not have Mary Taylor Wines on your short-list of NEEDS by now. With the possible exception of certain Kermit Lynch’s, I can’t think of another negociant eschewing ego, marketing-mystery and obfuscation to put PRODUCERS–and even vineyards–on the front label.
It drinks sweet and clear: fruity and floral propensities strong, but calm and restrained. Sweaty finish melds alcohol and round deliciousness. Perfectly balanced, this is a DREAMY white wine: just fucking GORGEOUS.
2020 MARY TAYLOR ‘Cotes de Gascogne’ Colombard/Ugni Blanc/Gros Manseng/SB 50/20/20/10 Domaine De Joy Olivier Gessler Panjas Cotes de Gascogne Midi-Pyrenees France 11.5
Stephen McConnell 