White Dream

This is really pretty stuff. An almost spritely texture on the tongue, tingling and tightening the pores which can’t help but absorb hundreds of delicate fruity sensations. The nose is a fresh-picked bouquet of lily and jasmine, natal plum and green nectarine. SOOOO ridiculously clean and bright–not unctuous or overwhelming–tiny bits of green stemminess carried ever-so-slightly on a film of petrol. Green lime and petrichor contribute to a slight old-world cellar-floor patina, but nothing gets in the way of its pure, streamlined tightness and saline fruitiness.

This prolific negociant was unknown to me a couple weeks ago, but in the days since I reviewed her Rosso Sicilia, news of her fabulous wines and clarity of labeling have been repeated by numerous sources across social-media land. You’d pretty much have to live in a cave to not have Mary Taylor Wines on your short-list of NEEDS by now. With the possible exception of certain Kermit Lynch’s, I can’t think of another negociant eschewing ego, marketing-mystery and obfuscation to put PRODUCERS–and even vineyards–on the front label.

It drinks sweet and clear: fruity and floral propensities strong, but calm and restrained. Sweaty finish melds alcohol and round deliciousness. Perfectly balanced, this is a DREAMY white wine: just fucking GORGEOUS.

2020 MARY TAYLOR ‘Cotes de Gascogne’ Colombard/Ugni Blanc/Gros Manseng/SB 50/20/20/10 Domaine De Joy Olivier Gessler Panjas Cotes de Gascogne Midi-Pyrenees France 11.5


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