Here’s an awesome Santa Ynez Valley winery which doesn’t pop up in conversation very often. In fact, I can’t remember the last time I heard it mentioned, although I can remember the last couple times I visited. Been a while, but close to a decade ago, I picked up a case of these babies, and pretty sure this is my last one. And it’s a well-timed event, as this wine is feeling on the de-cline.
Medium garnet–amber throughout–with heavy sediment. Beautiful warm, mellow, well-polished Sangiovese nose, highlighted by denser, much riper dark-berry ingredients. From memory, it is half Sangio, but forget the other three in the quartet. Cab and Merlot aren’t jumping out–Grenache is that you?? It would explain a LOT about the color. A little latex-glove and burnt rubber in the bouquet: not enough to be unpleasant, but requiring notation. Quite savory, the spicy undertones smeared thinly on worn leather and maderized plum.
12 years has rubbed it smooth on the palate, sweet and stewed, fruit a warm, reduced expression, all structure likewise balanced. You can’t help but have a few old-world notions while enjoying this trooper: plenty of brunello nods among the mire and brown cherry. A gorgeous wine, and retires gracefully. Just checked my last several hits on this bottle, and everything seamlessly points this direction. Next time you’re in Los Olivos, go a little north, head out Foxen Cyn, and a couple clicks up the way is Koehler.
2009 KOEHLER ‘Quartette’ Sangio/GR/Cab/CF 50/26/20/4 Santa Ynez Valley Santa Barbara Co. 14.5
Stephen McConnell 