Native Knitting

A little bit of a packaging-psychological-surprise on opening: bottled in flint champenoise with a crown-cap, I chilled it considerably, expecting a sparkler. It was not. Upon pouring, it was clearly evident to be a red still-wine. Allowing it to warm to mid-50’s, a huge gamey Gamay nose explodes: all stems and fresh-cut weeds, latex and tomato-vine. Earthy barnyard heads petrichor and chalk, match-head and steely rasp on 11, shrill, bright strawberry and easy cherry at the helm–ridiculous blue-purple not lying.

Tasting it brings nubile cru-bojo and easy, bright villages nuances to the forefront. A richness lurking evokes seriouser things, but the rash of flint and vegetal still rules the roost. Thin, bright raspberry, firm and controlled by tart acid, squirts darts of pleasure onto the palate, the grate of acerola overwhelming the impression of tannin. But it’s ripe. Don’t be fooled. There’s a viscosity to the fruit impossible to ignore throughout the delightful watery mouth-feel. This is the SLIGHTLY-CHILLED-RED of the decade, blastingly pure and simple, while complex to near-speechless levels. Amazing stuff.

2020 MAISON CROCHET ‘Native’ Gamay/PN/CH 1/1/1 Bulligny Lorraine France 13.0

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