Deep ruby–and not crystal-clear. A most intoxicating nose rises out of it: deep berry roiled in funk, ripe–decidedly–and glowing with California sunshine, but mired firmly in the sort of barnyard, composty essence so as to not identify with EITHER chubby concentrated SRH and SRH syrups OR watery, fruit-FWD Edna Valley or Carneros offerings. It smells like delicious Pinot–ALL pinot–with complex earthiness, dirty baby diaper, and musty detritus: August pond-water, asphalt saw-cutting, and a warm vegetal burning citrus astringency through mineral focus. I did a double-take on the brand, as I have visited La Lomita in Valle de Guadalupe–and rather like their wines–but here we have something quite state-side, and different. I LIKE pinots that smell like this, it reminds me of Dehlinger and all things goldridge: definitely an aspiring goal.
Tasting it POUNDS pure Pinot nuance into your pores. This is gorgeous stuff, and the level of pure PINOT-ness it relishes across the palate is inspiring. The cherry thin and balanced; the grapefruit minerality sharp and defining; the body watery in its wide amber-pink edges; the flavor crammed with dirty meanderings through cellar depths frozen in saltpeter and moist concrete. But despite its near-perfect funkiness, it’s clean and beautiful. Round crushed velvet already adorns this youngster, but the true splendor lies in the sharp Burgundian mouth-feel: where chalky dryness rubs up against rich fruit and careful concentration of warmth and flush stone-fruit.
Quite possibly the most-appealing Edna I have had to date, this is gorgeous stuff, able to woo the 99 in pure yumminess while training them in what Pinot SHOULD taste like (READ: not sea smoke, goldeneye or belle glos), but of course cramming plenty of geeky possibilities into a wide-ranging realm of textures. I’ve never tasted an Edna Valley pinot like this and this is DEF one to watch. Bitter and sharp in finish, the tannin unapologetic and vibrant, wired seamlessly into brash citrus shittiness the variety DEMANDS in excellent offerings. You might want to find some of this.
2020 LA LOMITA Pinot Noir Islay Hill Vyd Edna Valley San Luis Obispo Co. 13.4
Stephen McConnell 