Chardonnay Roots

What do you say about a wine like this? I mean… I could write a curt little 2-sentence Wine Spectator review and a bunch of people who consider me horribly pleonastic would cheer–or I could pour my heart out for 2 hours, and still not cover it. Bright thin canary *just* starting to golden, a smoky nose so sultry and fresh, dazzling with light and breadth and depth, aching lychee and bruised citrus, golden raspberries and steely petrichor. A dusty persona rides high over the fruit, but not dulling it a speck. Layers of savory meat and potatoes and apple blossoms and stream-fed lilies.

In the mouth, you’re torn between ID-ing the sharp acid or the elegant fruit first. Such is the magnificient balance on attack. And attack it does. Never has a better word been devised to pinpoint flavor-placement in a wine such as this. Bullish and tarnished, the metallic pewter patina rubbed fine with sweet berry and stone-fruit so granular the specks are hard to pick out. Cool, calm, and clean: a wash of everything wonderful: I think of the movie Big Night, where Tony Shalhoub describes timpano, “It’s like a pie–made from the most wonderful things on earth.” California Chardonnay gets caught in the cross-hairs of un-educated wine people constantly and it’s sad, because they are drinking the WRONG Chardonnays. This is life-altering Chardonnay.

2015 LIQUID FARM ‘White Hill’ Chardonnay Santa Rita Hills Santa Barbara Co. 13.0

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