Dunnder Mifflin

Grenache from Paso comes with a certain set of expectations: ridiculously ripe, jammy and concentrated, stand-a-fork-up-in-it texture with obligatory hi-alcohol. The nuances expected from Santa Barbara, Sonoma and–frankly–the rest of the world don’t often grace the Instagram and Twitter feeds of fans of the *cool kids* of Paso Robles. So… you gotta get a little off the beaten path–away from the hats and art and hay-rides and event centers, compelling articles and charming interviews. The comparison between Grenache (and Syrah) and Pinot come fast and easy to any educated person but are completely lost on Paso-bro.

Ruddy ruby in the glass, the oft-typical garnet only a glimmer near the thin clear rim. Incredibly meaty and chewy in the nose: the earth casually calves off in sheets around murky black cherry and mashed berry briar. It’s sharp and spicy in the nose–a bit of alcohol–grainy gravitas extolling all gloriousnesses of the fairer Burgundian place-mark.

Tasting it pulls all the murkiness an international version will contain into focus–but with gobs of California sunshine unmistakable in sequence. Sharp, dry pie-cherry acid grates at receptors while woodsy bramble spark visions of redwoods and red stone. Creamy-smooth, delicately balanced and able to prop cedar and copper-penny up into bright shots of raspberry and clove with ease. The fruit a purple-cow of decadence, but constantly getting lost behind shrill acid and the early bites of tannin. This feels like Alder Springs, honestly–or Yorkville Highlands. Stupidly good Grenache from Paso. It happens.

2019 DUNNING Grenache Reserve 4 Hearts Vyd, Willow Creek Dist. Paso Robles 14.5

www.dunningwines.com/

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