Three in Hand

Quick notes on three at dinner: opened in this order.

10YO Rueda found on the list! and the age-ability of these whites continues to astound. Closed in and tight on pour at refer temps, s l o w l y blossomed with warmth and air into brilliance–but never astonishing. Stupidly cheap–easily the bargain on the list–the fruit presented itself in time with dusty ripe apple and solid minerality with basically NO age visible in color or nose or texture. All high-brow graceful elegance, demure and sparkly. I think these wines are basically timeless. Another 10 to go EASY.

2016 Riesling from Spring Mountain needs no introduction to true California wine-drinkers. These people only make three wines and they make them WELL, and at superb values for Napa Valley these days. MUST LOVE PETROL on this one, as it courses through the nose leading grippy papaya and pineapple through its paces into deep, dank acidity and spiraling stoniness. Is this the best example of this variety made in the new world? A strong argument is available, and I’m open to suggestions otherwise.

My first experience with No Girls and expectations were tainted with all the #winebro enthusiasm I have observed. The concentration here makes Paso seem like a K-Mart diner, as the briary vegetal on heroin crams smoky reduction and ridiculous heat into every pore.–clearly at the expense of anything complex. Try as you may, this is a wine impossible to enjoy, pointless to rationalize, futile to drink with a high-quality meal. The grainy, deeply masticated berry does NOT go raisin or prune, but it dangles itself in an arena so moist with those nuances the apprehension is palpable. Gobstopping and searing, the amount of heat produced in a wine displaying “13-7” is not only surprising, but toe-curling and offensive. I guarantee this wine will be hugely successful and sell out in every arena.

2012 VINA MAYOR Verdejo Rueda DO Spain 13.0
2016 SMITH-MADRONE Riesling Spring Mt. Dist. Napa Valley 12.8
2017 CAYUSE VINEYARDS ‘No Girls’ Grenache Walla Walla Valley Washington 13.7

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