Shocking mint and toasted briar pour out of the glass, smoky charred fruit, crisp and carmelized, thick cherry reduced and liqueured, kept out of the pruney depths with copious cut green grass and perfect layers of bell pepper and eucalyptus. It is a heady, conspicuous nose, tarry fruit packed in densely–and well-coated with that Paso Robles sunny glow.
Lucky to have been privy to these wines since Day 1, sourced from Paul Frankel’s awesome estate in the Geneseo District. A cooler-climate section of the east-side region, it is nestled in the rolling foothills of the Linne Valley between El Pomar’s confluence with the Templeton Gap and the sprawling flatlands of Estrella. If you’re curious, I reviewed the debut wine (2015) HERE and the sophomore effort (2016) HERE. One of these is still available. The one in my hand is not released yet.
Supple and rich in the mouth, with far more spicy and acidic oomph and fruit thinness and vibrancy than honestly I was expecting from the nose. All that roasted fruit kinda scared me, and I feared it was going to be another Paso jam-bomb on the palate. I still think it is riper than the two above–I’m guessing 14-6. Bright, tangy fruit, sparkling dots on a sun-lit morning eddy, colorful springtime flowers lending sunny reflection and aroma to an otherwise chilly environment. I know you’re supposed to use big masculine grumpy words to describe expensive cab, but I do what I want. This wine has delicate verve, perfume and attitude all the way through it. It’s not a wimpy wine–don’t get me wrong. It exudes power from all directions, but it does it so elegantly, with such manners. Legs crossed. Gloves folded. Pick-up truck in the driveway.
Before y’all freak out on me: this is not on the website. It’s not released. YET. Because there is so little of it made, I don’t need to detail HOW to get some. I’m just going to let Darwin control who gets the wine.
2017 DUSTY NABOR Cabernet Sauvignon Geneseo District Paso Robles 14.5