A most engaging Pinot–this one from one of my favorite AVA’s: Sonoma Coast. Unlike the last one, which was mired in Edna Valley *comfortable-ness*, here we have a version bursting with individuality and varietal expression. Rosy and granular in the glass, the nose explodes with deep, ripe characteristics akin to cool-climate coastal environs and hints at raspy, WC fermentation. Deep, dank berry fills the bouquet, tinged with asphalt and match-head ire and a spicy grouping of vegetal and mineral.
In the mouth, acid spires to unbelievable while keeping steady beat with the lushness of contained fruit. Chalky and gloriously thin over the middle, it packs both early-term lusciousness and a dire need for age onto the palate. Graphite dust bouys raspberry and mountain strawberry into a bitter mouth-feel positively ALIVE with nuance and structure. The lines–again–between coastal syrah and pinot are blurred, but the tell-tale offerings of the Burgundian-sway are unmistakable. Citrus plays with earth on a distinct plane, while the pure beauty of preserved fruit stands tall against light tannins influencing the finish. A beautiful freshman effort from this producer. Look for this wine. It stands tall among many far more-revered labels.
2021 KOCHANA Pinot Noir Mil Vista Vyd Sonoma Coast 13.1
Stephen McConnell 